GOTHIC DARK FASHION EXHIBIT OPENING: FIT FASHION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY.

99% of the time, I’m the Goth-est person in the room. So it was a shock to the system when I arrived at the “Gothic: Dark Glamour” fashion exhibit opening at FIT (New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology) – and everyone looked like a Dracula movie extra.
I knew I’d be surrounded by Vampiras in floor-sweeping skirts. Rather than play “Gother Than Thou,” I did a wardrobe remix: a black chain skirt (from my h.NAOTO DIY) worn as a top over my silver disco dress (from a NYC sample sale), and spider-print 3/4 length leggings (from the Krazy! gallery preview). My lace collar has a danging crucifix and is attached to my wrist cuff by a silver chain ($45 from Sinn Shop, a Vancouver indie designer). I guess it worked – I was snapped by party photographer Patrick McMullan along with attendees Derek Lam, Lars Nilsson, Tom Scott, and Thom Browne.

In the main hall, the guests sipped bloody cocktails and fought over the meager hors d’oeuvres. I rolled my eyes at a man dressed in a Norma Desmond fur dressing-gown who slinked around the Lip Service display, pink cosmo in hand. While I was thrilled by the personal style of the “lifestyle Goths” (such as this trio), it was disconcerting to see NYC’s ubiquitous nightlife socialites (such as Andre J and Patrick McDonald) dressed in over-the-top Goth for the sake of the cameras. A stake through the heart of undead fashion…

“Hold on to the rail! Don’t trip!” called out the guard as the guests shuffled down two flights of stairs. The intro gallery was my favorite part of the exhibit; four vignettes traced the style to 18th century Gothic literature and the Victorian cult of mourning. A “Cabinet of Curiosities” displayed the death mask of a poet next to momento mori jewelry.

A crucifix-studded iron cage formed the focal point of the main room. Over 75 mannequins stood in dramatic mise-en-scenes, suggesting iconic Goth settings (castles, laboratories, labyrinths) and sub-styles (cyber, steampunk, Lolita).

My friend Kyshah Hell, who interviewed me for the Morbid Outlook article on gosurori, had several of her club outfits on display. She was in the company of McQueen, Lagerfeld, Galliano, Givenchy, Lacroix…

…and h.NAOTO, who contributed a gorgeous Lolita corset and skirt, accessorized with an Angry the cat plush toy (bottom right). The living dead included a young Lolita and artist/designer Voltaire (top right), who took off his jacket to reveal a shirt stained with blood!
I hope I’ll have the time to re-visit the Gothic fashion exhibit and soak it all in – an impossible task on opening night. Fortunately, it runs through February 21, 2009. Need another excuse to high-tail it to NYC? FIT is also offering a range of public programs, including a Tim Burton film series, an Oct. 30 “Goth Talk” panel, and readings from Bram Stoker and Edgar Allan Poe.
Gothic: Dark Glamour exhibit
The Museum at FIT
Runs: Sept 5, 2008 to Feb 21, 2009
Hours: Tuesday-Friday, noon to 8 p.m.; Saturday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Closed Sunday, Monday and legal holidays.
This entry was posted on Saturday, September 6th, 2008 at 10:54 and is filed under Art + Design, Fashion, Nightcrawling. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. Responses are currently closed, but you can trackback from your own site.
























September 6th, 2008 at 20:57
Mmy says:Oh! Of all the recent interesting events, THIS is the one I truly regret missing. I love museums perhaps even more than clubs. An entire gothic fashion exhibit is almost too much to bear; I can only hope they publish a nice photobook to go with it. Seeing everyone's snapshots is a good vicarious substitution, though!
*wrist to forehead, dramatic sigh* ;)
September 6th, 2008 at 20:58
Mmy says:And isn't that little girl beyond cute? <3
September 7th, 2008 at 00:02
lacarmina says:There is a gorgeous photobook! My friend contributed several photos to it.
September 7th, 2008 at 00:13
Sakura says:I liked your designs (sorry my english is bad, but i try)
congratulations, i wish you good luck
September 7th, 2008 at 09:47
Valerie says:I love you hair and your fashions by the way ^_^
September 7th, 2008 at 09:48
Louise says:I think i liked goth more when we were not so fasionable..
September 7th, 2008 at 09:48
Queen D says:That all looks absolutely AMAISING!!
I plan on going to FIT when Im done with Highschool
Its an awesome school
<333
September 7th, 2008 at 09:48
Queen D says:That all looks absolutely AMAISING!!
I plan on going to FIT when Im done with Highschool
Its an awesome school
<333
September 7th, 2008 at 09:48
Samina says:I'm going to have to agree with you on the socialites posing for the cameras. It may be all fun and photos for them, but it's a lifestyle choice for others.
It's kind of a double edged sword, this exhibit. While it's getting word out there about the different styles and attributes of the fashion, as well as the history and designers behind it, it's also making it out to be a bit more carnival and kitch. I'm all for poking fun at the uber-serious uber-Goths, but I also have a modicrum of respect for the history of the style and the scene. I can't help but worry of the effect on the scene, and the style. While incorporating new styles and new blood (no pun intended) is vital to the survival of a subculture, the staying power of that blood is what concerns me. This might be seen as an invitation to flood the market with cheap knockoffs and raise the prices on other items that were previously cheaper than dirt.
Still, it is a beautiful exhibit and thank you for the blog!
September 7th, 2008 at 09:54
lacarmina says:I hope you apply! Some of my friends went there and loved it.
September 7th, 2008 at 10:01
lacarmina says:Thanks for your thoughts… I had a good feeling about the exhibit overall. I thought it was well researched and displayed. I just found the opening to be less about the fashion and more about eye candy…
September 7th, 2008 at 12:33
Sui-chan says:i thought the stuffed toy looked more like kuromi from sanrio! in fact, im 100% positive…….hangry and angry wouldnt have a pink skull tattoo…..
September 7th, 2008 at 13:05
lacarmina says:Hey – you're right, the Lolita girl is holding Suromi. The cat doll in the photo next to her (bottom right) is from the h.NAOTO display, and it's an Angry doll.
September 8th, 2008 at 13:27
lacarmina says:If you can't visit the exhibition or take part in its related events, read Gothic: Dark Glamour (Yale University Press), the book that accompanies the exhibition. Co-written by Valerie Steele and Jennifer Park, coordinator of special programs at The Museum at FIT, the book also features interviews with many designers and some estraordinarily lavish work by fashion photographers such as Sean Ellis and Eugenio Recuenco.
September 8th, 2008 at 14:41
Itziar says:I would love to go to an exhibit like that…. but in the country where I live something like that never happens ¬¬
Thank you for the information.
September 11th, 2008 at 12:07
Sweeney says:love all ur dress
September 12th, 2008 at 00:37
mon mon says:Your pix are soooo cool! I love your outfits, they rock! ~mon mon :)
September 13th, 2008 at 13:18
DFL says:Great article. Just wanted to add a note.. besides the major designers, some established niche designers were also represented… in the 'Laboratory' you can see an outfit by Plastik Wrap as well as, a few other niche designers you can find at http://www.darkfashionlinks.com
I am so very happy that Dr. Valerie Steele decided to include alternative designers in this project!!!
September 13th, 2008 at 16:08
lacarmina says:Me too – my friend's personal collection of club clothing was featured – how cool is that!
Thanks for the link.
September 20th, 2008 at 00:58
LiTtLe_MiSs_PsYcHo says:wow….i wish i was there *starts dreaming*
October 12th, 2008 at 10:36
Adya says:Hey! Thats me in the Bodyline japan dress with the kuromi! It was so great to meet you there.
October 12th, 2008 at 16:03
lacarmina says:Hi Adya! Lovely to meet you too; thanks for letting me take your photo. Crazy party, wasn't it? What brought you to it?
February 8th, 2009 at 22:29
Adya says:An invitation from a friend, actually- they were looking for people to represent the various cultures, so i was asked to come in my full Lolita attire!
February 9th, 2009 at 06:29
Adya says:An invitation from a friend, actually- they were looking for people to represent the various cultures, so i was asked to come in my full Lolita attire!