Category Archive for Tokyo Gothic Lolita
I stayed at Tokyo’s Godzilla Hotel! Gracery Shinjuku, Japanese theme hotel review, Akihabara Washington.
Skreeeonk! Watch out, Tokyo. It looks like Godzilla is taking over the city once again.
Did you know you can stay at a Godzilla monster themed hotel: Hotel Gracery Shinjuku? Only in Japan, of course!
Let’s kick off 2017 with a roar. I’ll take you inside Gracery Shinjuku, a wonderfully idiosyncratic hotel in the best possible location. (Godzilla’s claw points over Kabuki-Cho, the host club and nightlife district where most of the Goth / alternative events take place.)
● You can book a discounted room at the Godzilla hotel here, using my special link.
On the terrace of the hotel is a towering Godzilla statue — it doesn’t get more epic than this. The monster even moves and roars, with flashing eyes!
Where is this bizarre Japanese hotel located? From Shinjuku station’s East Exit, walk towards Kabukicho and go down the street near Don Quixote. Look up — you’ll see the Hotel Gracery sign, and Godzilla atop a skyscraper!
It makes sense that he’s towering over Toho Cinemas, which releases all the Japanese Godzilla movies. (Address: 1-19-1 Kabukicho, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo, Japan.)
The hotel has 30 storeys, which meant I had these soaring views of Shinjuku from my window. Gracery’s rooms are simple yet spacious, which provides great value (prices are around $100 a night). I spent over an hour soaking in the large bathtub, using the free red bath salts that I got when I checked in.
For fans of “dai kaiju”… There’s a Godzilla room that you can rent. Keep reading to see photos of the “monstrous” interior.
Hotel Gracery only opened in 2015, but already, it has become a Shinjuku landmark — thanks to the Godzilla perched menacingly over its ledge.
I’m wearing a Long Clothing Infinity Clip skirt. See more from this designer below:
If you’re a guest of the hotel, you can access the terrace where Godzilla lives… that is, if you dare.
Hotel Gracery’s convenient location makes it a perfect hangout. John and I invited our friends to join us for drinks and snacks at “Café Terrace Bonjour,” located on the eighth floor.
The cafe is guarded by a life-sized version of the monster, similar to this 1995 Godzilla statue that you can put in your home.
The relaxing lounge has an adjoining outdoor terrace, and large selection of snacks and cocktails. There’s even a Godzilla cake that you can bite into.
However, my friend Caro (who runs a Gothic baking blog) brought her own homemade spooky sweets for us to share. These are marshmallow ghost cookies are made with white chocolate and absinthe, in colors that match her green liquid lipstick.
Everyone grabbed a ghoul to eat. By the end of the evening, they had vanished into thin air.
(Many of us are wearing Killstar, Long Clothing and other Gothic styles that you can get on this site.)
In the evening, Godzilla awakens at the top of each hour (6pm, 7pm, etc). For a few minutes, he shakes his head and his eyes flash like lightning. The creature bares his pointed teeth and spits out fog — or rather, his secret weapon of “atomic breath.”
We did our own impression of the scary beast. I think Goths and Godzillas get along rather well together.
Beneath the behemoth, there are carvings of Godzilla from his films over the years. The monster’s design changes every time they release a movie, such as with the latest “Shin-Godzilla.”
Some of the depictions are more goofy-retro than frightening.
For those who aren’t familiar with “Gojira,” (ゴジラ), the monster first appeared in Ishirō Honda’s 1954 film, Godzilla (more info here). He’s a raging, gigantic prehistoric sea monster whose powers were awakened by nuclear radiation.
Japan’s Godzilla quickly became a legend, and his name is now known all over the world. To this date, he’s the star of over 20 films, as well as video games, manga and spin-offs featuring his allies, rivals and juniors.
John, Atsushi and I are fans of Godzilla, even though he’s destroyed Tokyo over and over. My skirt is a Long Clothing Infinity Clip design; find more from this label at:
For super-fans, Hotel Gracery has two special suites dedicated to Godzilla! One gives you the perfect view of Godzilla’s head, from your window.
The other, called “Godzilla Room,” lets you get immersed in the monster’s universe. Everything is decorated playfully, such as trick walls that reveal art in black light, and a mega-statue that greets you when you enter.
The suite’s windows have decals of his frenemies such as Mothra, who appears to be spreading his wings over Tokyo.
High five to Gracery Shinjuku, for the creative Godzilla room decoration. Would you be able to sleep with his scaly hand on the wall, looking like it’s about to grab you?
One of the walls is decorated with his movie posters, from the 1950s to today. I enjoyed seeing the concept evolution over time. (Photos by John S and me.)
SpaceGodzilla came down from the stars. Such a creative window design — from this angle, it looks like he’s about to tear this skyscraper out from the ground.
The Japanese love their home-grown monster, and even named this Godzilla road after him (leading from Meiji-doori to Hotel Gracery).
I always recommend that travelers stay in Shinjuku, since it’s close to everything. Hotel Gracery is in the best possible location: near Decabarz (the alternative Goth club), Golden Gai, host clubs, bizarre theme restaurants, cat cafes, and all types of delicious food. In the area underneath the hotel for example, there’s takoyaki, okonomiyaki, sushi, and Krispy Kreme.
Hotel Gracery did a spectacular job in executing the Godzilla theme. There’s impeccable attention to detail…
… and tributes to the “kaiju” all over the lobby, such as this mural leading up to the elevators.
Fans of Godzilla, King Ghidara and Mothra — you’ve got to check out this unique hotel.
While in Tokyo, I got to rest my head at yet another theme hotel, Washington Akihabara. (Japan’s Washington Hotels are under the same umbrella as Gracery.)
Located in the “otaku” district of Japan, this is the only hotel in the world with a room dedicated to train aficionados. One of the walls contains a glass case, filled with miniature re-constructions of railway stations. (Above, can you spot No Face?)
Washington Hotel is once again in a convenient location: a 1-minute walk from JR Akihabara Station. (Address: 1-8-3 Kanda Sakumacho, Chiyoda, Tokyo)
Train fans can reserve Room 1304, which has a huge train track with professional levers. You can borrow one of the hotel’s model trains, put it on the rails, and use the gears to make it whizz around at different speeds.
Above, you can see a blue and green train looping around on opposite tracks. The model set includes the city’s landmarks, including Tokyo Tower.
Once again, the rooms are clean and spacious, and excellent value (book a room for under $90 here). Hotel Washington also has a terrific included breakfast: I ate my fill of hiyayakko (chilled soft tofu), pickled vegetables, tamago and miso soup every day.
You can also find out more about Hotel Gracery Shinjuku and book a room here (you can request the Godzilla suite).
Have you watched any of the Godzilla movies? Would you stay in this eccentric theme hotel?
Coming up – a travel video and more posts from my JR Rail Pass trip through Japan. If you’re planning to come in the spring for cherry blossom season, it’s a great idea to get one of these unlimited passes, which let you ride the rails at a fraction of the cost.
Park Hotel Tokyo: luxury art & culture hotel in Shiodome! Japanese artist project, decorated theme rooms.
As that Italo disco song goes: “Tokyo by night / City full of light. I will lead you through / Tokyo by night.”
That sums up the feeling of my stay at Park Hotel Tokyo, a modern skyscraper filled with Japanese design and culture. Every evening, I looked out from my Artist Room on the 31st floor — decorated floor-to-ceiling in wabisabi — at the neon twinkle of the Tokyo Tower.
As you’ll recall, I was traveling around Japan using a JRailPass, which gives me unlimited access to JR trains (including shinkansen, buses and some ferries). If you purchase a Japan Rail Pass like mine (for 1-3 weeks), I recommend beginning your trip in Tokyo. Spend at least 5-7 days here, and then activate your pass to start riding the rails.
I’m glad I stayed at Park Hotel in Shiodome (near Ginza), as the entire experience is designed to immerse you in Japanese art and culture. My Instagram lit up when I showed you the soaring views from my hotel room window.
(Find out more about Park Hotel, and book a stay.)
From the moment you step into the 25th floor lobby, Park Hotel lives up to its reputation for omotenashi, or Japanese-style hospitality. The kind staff anticipates all your needs, and everyone speaks fluent English.
(For my Japan travels, my stylist Stephanie Hoy at Sugar Skull Studio made my hair grey and green.)
In 2012, Park Hotel Tokyo initiated an “Artist in Hotel” project, which brings in local artists to decorate a room on the 31st floor.
To date, there are over a dozen art rooms on this floor, each inspired by some aspect of Japanese culture. The creative themes include Sumo, Zen, and Lucky Cat. Photographer John S and I got to take an inside look — read on for the details and to learn about each artist.
My black lace necklace is this exact choker by Shashi. With embroidered detailing and a lobster claw clasp, this choker is 90s Gothic perfection.
(Shop my look below, and click the arrows for more:)
At Park Hotel, the art immersion begins in the lobby. The artists who took part in the room project also have designs on display, and for sale.
There’s so much to see in the lobby lounge. I admired the glowing circular halo paintings by Nobuo Hashiba, and peeked into glass cases of contemporary design. At night, the tall atrium walls light up with colorful projections.
At this hotel, even the most unexpected spaces become canvases for creativity. Indoor smoking rooms are usually glum and bare-boned spaces. Fortunately, the funky artist Akihisa Hayashi (“Marron-chan”) stepped in, and turned the walls into a retro-sexy painting of a geisha, with golden clouds drifting out of her elegant pipe!
Look closely and you’ll see Tokyo landmarks along with flying sushi and ramen girls, Godzilla, a UFO, and cats.
Guests can book any of the Art Colours rooms on the 31st floor of Park Hotel Shiodome. I’m lounging in “Kabuki” by Yamaguchi Keisuke: he painted this horse and flowing circles while staying in this room for 16 days.
His inspiration is “Yanone,” a Kabuki performance that captures the beauty of ancient Japanese traditions. The arms and legs blur into curves, representing the expressive movements of the theater.
In another room, painter Nanami Ishihara took the concept of “Festival” as her theme. The party never stops: every inch of free space is covered in rainbow rabbits, elephants, deities and schoolgirls doing the “Bon odori” matsuri dance.
She even turns functional objects into playful art. In the closet, the air vent becomes the mouth of a dancing lion!
Yuka Ohtani lived in Akita prefecture (in the north of Japan), and the peaceful landscapes and lifestyle inspired her to create this room. The panels are framed with cedarwood from the region, with a view of the local moat and flowers in bloom.
She pays tribute to Akita with elegant details: a “cracked ice” pottery pattern on the ceiling, camellia flowers over faux sliding screens…
… and paintings of glowing lanterns from the Kanto festival, hidden in the closet.
(I couldn’t resist going inside and doing a Sadako impression!)
One of my personal favorites was the “12 signs of the Zodiac” room by Ryosuke Yasumoto, which was completed during his 11-day stay. His black and white animal illustrations flow through the walls, and emphasize the humorous side of the Asian folk tale.
I had fun finding all the animals in the room. Ryosuke Yasumoto takes full advantage of the three-dimensional space, mounting a cat sculpture on one wall and reflecting creatures in the mirror. (The cat was left out of the legendary race, but makes a comeback here.)
I stayed in the Wabi-Sabi room, which I recommend as it has a brilliant view of the Tokyo Tower. Artist Conami Hara created this work over four months, using silver foil to transform the walls into shimmering colors that will change over time. She painted driftwoods and ripples, inspired by the Zen stonen garden Ryoanji in Kyoto.
Castle by Kazuki Mizuguchi was constructed over 454 days. His transcendent vision depicts Edo Castle, which was lost in a fire, over a black background. The room entrance mimics a stone wall, and even the lampshades reflect the archtecture of the roof.
At night, a surprise appears: when you gaze in the direction of the Imperial Palace, the castle appears in a reflection on the glass.
The 25th floor harmonizes a functional lobby with natural surroundings of Japan. Looking up, the atrium soars up into a triangular prism of light.
Every morning, I came downstairs for the freshly prepared breakfast, with both continental and Japanese options. (I feasted on the gobo, hijiki, soft tofu and miso soup.)
Eggs, anyone? Next to the yogurt and fruit display, I came across these alien-like sculptures. (My Pokemon Go nail art is by Glam Nail Studio in Vancouver.)
Park Hotel’s mission is summed up in “Art”: Atrium, Restaurant, Travel, and of course the artist rooms project. They succeeded in bringing Japanese aesthetics to the forefront, and made my stay feel like a cultural integration.
Park Hotel is right by Shiodome and Shimbashi train stations, and a short walk to Ginza. The location gives easy access to the major districts of Tokyo, while letting you feel as if you’re in a peaceful hideaway, up in the clouds.
John S and I had a memorable drink at The Society, the first bar in Japan to be officially recognised by The Scotch Malt Whisky Society.
These connoisseurs stock hundreds of bottles of whiskey from around the world, each with poetic names that reference the taste or feeling. Such as: “Jingling Jalapenos,” “Hospitals on Guy Fawkes night,” and “BBQ in Pine-Clad Dunes.”
We took in the Blade Runner views from the windows, and sipped one of the bar’s finest Japanese single malt whiskeys. Prices are steep at The Society, but a tiny taste goes a long way.
I’ll miss my mornings in my Artist Room, drinking green tea and reading The Japan Times while curled up on this sill…
Which is your favorite of the Artist Rooms? Doesn’t this city view remind you of the movie “Lost in Translation”? (PS: check my Instagram Stories and Snapchat @lacarmina for cute daily updates from Asia right now.)
It’s Black Friday — the best time of year to get discounted Gothic fashion. Case in point: all the Goth clothes at Dollskill are all 30% off now!
(And here are many more discount deals, all on one page. These include Killstar, Disturbia, Tripp NYC, Long Clothing, Morph8ne, Sourpuss, YRU, Demonia etc).
Since I’m often asked where I buy my clothes, I did a handy round-up of my favorite retailers. You might have noticed I’ve been wearing less Japanese and Lolita clothing these days. While I still love the style, I’m enjoying a more minimal Gothic look recently.
Above is one of my current favorites: Morph8ne, an independent designer based in Thailand. They produce dark dolly fashion, with unique details like ribbon corset lacing. In the above right photo, I’m wearing this exact sweater, which is now on sale.
Below are more discounted items from Morph8ne.
I’ve been wearing Long Clothing a lot on my travels. Their oversized streetwear is comfortable yet eye-catching (get it?).
Click to get the Long Clothing eyeball shirt that I’m wearing above.
Long Clothing did a fantastic collaboration with Grace Neutral (the hand-poke tattoo artist, model and body modification aficionado) — including this mandala shirt. I also have several pieces from their Long Clothing x Mishka clothing line.
I’ve selected my favorite designs below; toggle the arrows to browse:
Killstar needs no introduction. This leading “Nu Goth” brand is known for dark, occult designs that incorporate Satanic symbols and runes (like in my outfit).
Killstar recently released a Marilyn Manson collection, which rocks. They have a range of styles for both men and women: I’m coveting this Wednesday Addams dress, and pentagram harness. I’m also tempted to get Killstar’s coffin shaped wallet… And basically everything in the images below!
Some of my favorite wardrobe pieces are by Disturbia, who consistently produce edgy, Gothic designs.
Disturbia is also all about occult and wiccan symbology. Some of their designs pay homage to horror writer Lovecraft. Take, for example, this triangle seeing eye backpack, and skull sweatshirt with extra long sleeves.
And then, there is my beloved Miffy. Chinti and Parker did a beautiful collaboration with the cute bunny: their adult tops are made with luxury fabrics like cashmere.
Finally, don’t miss the Shopbop Thanksgiving sale: with the code “GOBIG16”, you get 15% off orders of over $200. The percentage rises if you purchase more, so come take a look.
I hope this helps answer the question of where I get my Goth Alternative clothes! It’s a great time to order items online, as there are tons of sales and you don’t have to battle the crowds.
I also compiled discount codes for all my favorite brands, all on one page. These include Killstar, Disturbia, Tripp NYC, Long Clothing, Morph8ne, Sourpuss, YRU, Demonia and many more alternative labels! There are also coupon and promo discounts for general clothing, makeup (Sephora, MAC etc), travel, hotels and home goods.
See ALL my promo / gift codes here — feel free to share! Just click on the link to the retailer, and it’ll automatically apply the best possible discounts.
For more shopping inspiration, I’ll share some photos I recently took in Shinjuku, Tokyo. In this district, the cuteness factor is always through the roof.
This was a big year for Pokemon. At the department store Studio Alta, Pikachu and his compadres had a pop up boutique. (Alta is located right across from Shinjuku East Exit.)
Pokemon Go fans went cray for these kawaii pins, keychains and other cute character goods.
My Pokemon Go ghost-character nail art fit in with these plush Pikachus.
How amazing is this adult skeleton onesie (available here)? Inside Studio Alta, you’ll find “spoopy” accessories any time of the year, like zombie eyeball knee highs.
Gyaru, decora and ganguro girls would go nuts for the rainbow striped and leopard print socks.
These plush toy frogs look like they’re into the fetish scene.
At Algonquins, a pumpkin-headed gentleman greeted visitors. The store carries Goth Punk Aristocrat and Lolita styles (I have a few Algonquins items for sale, email me if you can’t find the listings.)
Cut out heels are everything. (YRU has platform shoes with star and moon cutouts!)
Monsters, Inc? Beautiful faux fur, with a gloomy eye and vampire teeth.
Disney products are popular in various Tokyo stores. I encourage you to visit Studio Alta and walk around; there are always new, trendy items on the racks.
One of the boutiques had Junie Moon and Blythe dolls, in sweet Lolita doll garments.
Lots of Lolita, royal and pirate influences. Which of these outfits do you like best?
Don’t forget the basement / lower levels of Studio Alta. You can buy yuzu drinks from the 7-Eleven, and pick up a smiling bear or cat cake from Swimmer.
Love the creative decoration: chocolate cookie ears, raspberry bow ties. These Japanese animal desserts are too cute to eat!
Shinjuku is one of the best neighborhoods to find cute accessories and gifts. These kitty-faced bags are similar to this Lulu Guinness glittery cat coin purse.
At Odakaya, you can find special effects / movie makeup, latex, wigs, eyelashes, feathers, fabrics… It’s essentially like a drag queen’s closet.
Japanese makeup is always fun and slightly bizarre, such as these “color eyebrow” mascaras modeled by anime elves.
(Browse my favorite fashion with a click below — most items are heavily discounted right now.)
I leave you some Jrock and Visual Kei posters (you can find CDs and merchandise in Shinjuku). V-kei band Daizy Stripper is looking fresh as a daisy, for their 10th anniversary.
Kyoto Fushimi Inari shrine: famous red-orange Japanese temple gates! Hotel Gracery Sanjo, kabuki themed room.
Kyoto! Hello! Even though I’m frequently in Tokyo, I haven’t been to the city of temples in years.
I had the perfect opportunity to visit Kyoto with my Japan Rail Pass, which gave me unlimited access to Japanese trains, buses and ferries for a week. In less than 3 hours, I arrived by bullet train and made it to the famous gates of Fushimi Inari shrine.
I have a feeling you might be seeking a sense of peace… so in this post, I’ll show you some of Kyoto’s magnificent temples. This was the Imperial capital for over 1000 years, and is still considered the cultural and spiritual center of Japan.
Kyoto was spared from the WWII bombings, which makes it one of the best preserved cities in the country. With nearly 2000 Buddhist temples, 500 Shinto shrines and world class art museums, this is a culture-lover’s dream destination.
If you only have a brief time in Kyoto, I urge you not to stress about seeing all the temples. Go with the flow, wander into small shrines and graveyards, eat the seasonal and local cuisine, browse artisan shops — that’s the magic of Kyoto, Japan.
I wanted every aspect of this trip to be immersive — so we stayed at Hotel Gracery Sanjo Kyoto, which has a special kabuki themed room!
This hotel is affordable, and in an ideal location: right in Teramachi Shopping Arcade, which is filled with antiques, cute goods, kimono shops, you name it.
You can request to stay in their unique kabuki room, which is inspired by the classical Japanese drama. Kabuki performances date back to the Edo period, and are characterized by stylized movements, elaborate makeup and traditional tales.
I was impressed by how Hotel Gracery captured the ambiance of Kyoto’s theater culture. The room is gracefully decorated with cherry blossoms, glowing red lanterns, and silky red floral prints that match the kimono in the painting. Even the ceilings are painted with elegant panels.
(I’m wearing a circular metallic choker similar to this necklace.)
All of the hotel’s rooms are comfortable, with modern toilets and giant bathtubs. There’s a fantastic spread of international and Japanese food at breakfast: every morning, I ate my fill of soft tofu, matcha, seaweed, and rice with tiny fish.
Hotel Gracery Kyoto Sanjo has my thumbs up. You can book a stay and find out more here, including room prices and options.
Our hotel was a quick walk to Gion (the geisha district) and the major attractions in Kyoto. Many tourists rush around trying to see everything, and end up getting “templed out.” I preferred to explore at a leisurely place, an approach that jived with the peaceful atmosphere of the city.
We walked to Heian Jingu, one of the most famous Shinto shrines. Built in 1895, this shrine is dedicated to the Imperial family, and commemorates the first and last emperors to live in Kyoto.
Let’s talk about the rituals and objects you’ll usually encounter, and their special meanings.
Outside many Shinto shrines, you’ll see a stack of empty sake barrels. These are “kazaridaru,” or decoration barrels marked with brewery labels. Sake represents the spiritual connection between humans, brewers and gods, who drink and rejoice during festivals.
In the courtyard of Heian Shrine, I made my way to the chozura or temizuya — a Shinto water pavilion found at the entrance of shrines. Before entering, visitors perform a purification rite: they scoop up some of the water to wash their left hand, right hand, mouth, and handle of the ladle.
A Japanese dragon watches over the water ablutions. To the right, a closeup on the ema: Shinto worshipers write their wishes and intentions on these wooden plaques.
Both Shinto and Buddhist shrines often have wire racks or tree branches covered in strips of paper. These o-mikuji are fortunes that you randomly choose from a box. If the news is good, you can keep it or tie it up. If it’s bad, you’ll want to tie the paper securely so that it doesn’t go home with you.
Finally, these zigzag paper streamers are called shide. They’re often attached to a wand and shaken, as a Shinto blessing. These ones hang from a prayer rope called a shimenawa, warding off evil and delineating a sacred space.
While it’s nice to see the biggest and most popular sights in Kyoto, they have their downsides. Some places, like Nijo Castle, have entrance fees and hoards of tour buses, which can spoil the mood.
I highly encourage you to wander around and visit the smaller, local temples. My friends and I came across this one (we don’t even know the name of it) on a walk, and it turned out to be one of my favorites.
The dark wood architecture was beautiful and rather Gothic. There was also nobody else there, which let me pause and take in the surroundings in peace.
Another bonus: we discovered a traditional graveyard in the back! These tall wood tablets or sticks are sotoba. They’re carved with the Buddhist names that practitioners receive after they die. (Photos by John S.)
Kyoto is one of my favorite destinations for architecture. So many forms, natural materials and textures in a single photo.
Kyoto is home to Ryoan-ji, the most famous Zen rock garden. However, in the little temples, you’ll find unexpected and lovely gardens such as this. Don’t miss out on these little-known gems.
On the other hand, I encourage you to see one of the most famous sights in all of Japan: Fushimi Inari Taisha. I’m sure you have seen photos of this unmistakable shrine, with a path lined with thousands of orange torii gates.
You’ll likely to take a taxi or subway to Fushimi Inari, which is about 20 minutes from Gion. This is the head shrine of Inari, a Shinto god with thousands of dedicated shrines (as well as Buddhist temples) all over Japan. These fox statues (kitsune) are the messengers of Inari, bearing symbolic objects in their mouths or paws.
We saw Shinto priests performing a ceremony, clad in white robes and black hats.
Founded in the year 711, the shrine sits at the base of Inari mountain, and has trails that go up several kilometers. If you walk the entire pathway, lined with vermilion torii gates, it’ll take you about two hours. (We only went up part of the way.)
The gates are arranged so that everyone walks upward in the same direction, and down on the opposite side. If you want a photo without anyone else in the shot, walk further up and be patient, since the path can be quite crowded.
There are about 5000 red-orange gates in total. Walking through these seemingly endless arches turns into a type of meditation; you feel protected by the warm tunnel, and can peer through the posts into the trees and sky.
(The engraved Japanese characters, or kanji, represent the names of donors.)
The kami Inari is the god of foxes, fertility, agriculture, and general prosperity. We couldn’t resist buying one of these blank wooden boards shaped like a fox for 500 yen. Fushimi Inari provides black marker pens for you to draw a face on the front, and write down your name and wishes on the back.
Who else but La Carmina and friends would decorate it with a Miffy X-mouth, Satanic pentagram, decadent eyelashes, and kawaii cheeks?
When the ema is complete, you hang it up with the others. How fun to see the creativity of everyone’s drawings.
Fushimi Inari is rich with history, and the gates are magnificent to see in person. There’s no entrance fee, so you have no excuse for missing it!
Now, how about lunch? I could spend weeks in Kyoto simply trying all the fantastic food.
On the recommendation of DJ Mistress Maya, we ate at Daruman Kyoto (8-4 Okazaki Saishojicho, Sakyo Ward). This is a vegetarian obanzai restaurant, which means everything is cooked in the traditional style, and at least half the ingredients are produced locally. Obanzai cooking is simple, healthy and focuses on avoiding waste — and yet, the dishes are imaginative and incredibly tasty.
I love homey, local restaurants such as Daruman. The interior is filled with adorable touches such as this owl toothpick pot, and a chopstick holder shaped like a daruma (round dharma doll). (My Pokemon Go nail art is by Glam Nail Studio.)
The owner is an electro/techno musician, and he came by the table to personally greet us and offer suggestions. We chose the hot sake that he recommended, and at the end, he brought out a special green tea and red bean dessert — on the house.
How enticing is this vegetarian “moriawase” spread? Obanzai cooking relies on seasonal produce: I was happy to see kabocha, or Japanese pumpkin, for the fall. The matcha (green tea) tofu is a local specialty, made by monks at a nearby Zen temple. We also got to choose between hot or cold soba, perfectly prepared with a side of crispy tempura.
You’ll find fantastic vegetarian or vegan food in Kyoto, and Daruman is proof of how well it can be executed.
On the non-veg side, I am still salivating over the spicy miso ramen I had at Sen no kaze, a counter-style restaurant run by women wearing hats. It’s quite possibly the best ramen I’ve ever had — and I’ve had a lot.
Later, I stopped by Cafe Dong, located inside the modern Sfera design building. I slowly sipped at a whisked matcha and took in the surroundings — such a change from fast-paced, go-go-go Tokyo.
The Sfera building also houses a design shop and museum with changing exhibitions. The minimal, Zen interior decor gave me inspiration for my apartment.
I hope you enjoyed reading about the temple culture of Kyoto. Coming up, I’ll post photos of the vintage and artistic boutiques I found during my stay, as well as another cute shrine.
Have you heard of Fushimi Inari shrine before? If you’ve visited Kyoto, what did you love best about your experience? I hope this post brings you a sense of tranquility, in these crazy times…